General Questions and Answers on TJ Forged Racing Wheels
How did TJ Forged Racing Wheels start?
TJ Forged was formed by Taylor Weld after many requests by customers to get back in the racing wheel business. Taylor simply saw a need in the market for a better wheel and better wheel company to help racers. TJ Forged Racing Wheels was started to solve these problems. We want to supply quality products to the racing market, on-time and actually service the customers in a way that they deserve. TJ Forged is run by racers with racer’s needs as our primary concern.
Why should I buy a TJ Forged Wheel vs. the competition?
TJ Forged singular focus in the racing wheel market – We only build racing wheels for racing applications. We don’t do this as a division of a larger company, not as a marketing gimmick or expensive hobby. Our business is solely dependent on our ability to supply the racing market with the most competitive product at a reasonable price, on time and with the best quality. Racing wheels is all we do.
We are a company of racers building wheels for racers – Everyone involved in our company comes from a racing background. Either a current driver, car owner, or former driver, we know what it’s like to be on the other end of the phone ordering parts. Just like you, we have waited for the UPS truck to show up with a critical part needed to race the next weekend. We know that it’s our responsibility to help you get to the racetrack and we take it seriously every day.
We have literally decades of wheel design, manufacturing, and selling experience in our corner – Although TJ Forged is relatively new to the racing wheel market, one of the principals of our company is definitely not. Taylor Weld is the head of our product design and manufacturing operations. If you have bought a Weld Racing wheel in the past 15-20 years, you are looking at some of Taylor’s handiwork. Taylor was instrumental in leading Weld Racing’s motorsports division into the modern era with the introduction of 100% CNC machined, forged aluminum centers, direct mount front hubs, “ultra-cover” style mud covers, and many other manufacturing innovations too numerous to list. The Weld family sold Weld Racing in 2006 and after a brief “semi-retirement” Taylor Weld is back in the racing wheel business and leading the next wave of innovation with TJ Forged Racing Wheels. Our new product is just a sampling of what will be coming in the next few years.
We will constantly improve our product – There is no such thing as “good enough”. We have a very aggressive new product development schedule and will be relentless with product improvements going forward. We listen to our customers. We will take all feedback and use it to improve our products. Some of the best innovations have actually come from racers and mechanics who work with racing wheels every day. We know we will make mistakes sometimes but we will never stop trying to learn from those mistakes and make our products, our service, and our company the best in the industry.
Where do your parts come from?
TJ Forged sources parts from several different suppliers depending on the product but always with the ultimate goal of supplying the highest quality products, regardless of where they come from. We use both domestic and overseas suppliers for different wheel components.
We have an exclusive supply relationship with a supplier in South Korea (not North Korea lol) for our rim half components. This manufacturer has been supplying the automotive aftermarket for over 30 years and has world-class manufacturing equipment. Taylor Weld, our VP of operations has been to their facilities multiple times and knows quality manufacturing capabilities when he see it and says our supplier rivals any manufacturing capacity in the USA, or the world for that matter. Rim halves are the critical component that makes a racing wheel and this relationship is crucial to ensure TJ Forged has the best quality products.
We source all other products domestically in the USA: Aluminum center forgings from California, cnc spun aluminum mud covers from Iowa, CNC Machining in California, Fasteners from Illinois and Ohio, wheel assembly, packaging and warehousing in Fresno CA. We literally go out and find the best quality products, no matter where they are. Sometimes that’s overseas, other times is the next state over. TJ Forged will always strive to find quality suppliers for our wheel components.
Can I buy my wheels directly from TJ Forged or do I need to buy through a dealer?
At this time, TJ Forged sells directly to racers. We sell racers at the Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) which is our listed “Racer Price”. Given that we are relatively new compared to the well established wheel brands out there, we feel it’s best to deal directly with our customers and give them the information and service they deserve.
How can I become a dealer for TJ Forged?
At this time we are not opening any authorized dealers in the United States. Under special circumstances, we are looking at selecting some key distribution partners for international sales, primarily Australia and New Zealand. Unless your business is in the business of racing, have a tax ID number and an actual address, website, etc., we probably won’t set you up as a dealer. We do this so that the legitimate dealers who make their living selling and servicing the racing market have a fighting chance to compete fairly. We will strictly enforce our MAP pricing policy and will refer customers to dealers in their geographic areas whenever possible.
How can I get sponsored by TJ Forged?
TJ Forged is going to be very aggressive in 2020 to get racers to make the switch. We are looking for two types of people to sponsor: “winners” and “influencers”. Winners are exactly what it means – racers or race teams who win races, track championships, series championships. If you won a race in 2019 and/or finished in the top 5 in points at your local track or racing series in 2019, we want to talk. Influencers are drivers, mechanics, or even team owners who are respected in their area and are the “go to” guy when racers need help, advice or direction on setup advice, what brand to use, etc. We know these folks might not win all the races but they help many others get their start and help others win races. We want to work with these influencers and use them to help make TJ Forged wheels better. Good feedback from our customers is critical to making our product the best possible and we want to help those who help us.
What size and type fasteners does TJ Forged use?
TJ Forged has learned from customer feedback that fastener quality has been a big issue in the past. Every TJ Forged wheel comes with domestically manufactured (that’s USA made) grade 8 fasteners with zinc plating for corrosion resistance. We use coarse thread inserts and bolts for both beadlocks and centers. This ensures there are no mix-ups on coarse thread/fine thread inserts or bolts. Some people may argue the whole “torque values on coarse thread vs. fine thread” but I can ensure you that all our fasteners will hold torque adequately. Additionally all center fasteners have thread locking compound (Loctite 243-Blue) applied during wheel assembly.
Here are the current fastener sizes
(Chart info to be Edited Here)
TJ Forged uses Wheel Type Qty Req Bolt Nut Washer 10” DM Front Wheel 8 1/4-20 x .500”L HHCS 1/4-20 Plug Nut 1/4 AN960 10” Spline Rear Wheel 12 1/4-20 x .750”L HHCS 1/4-20 Plug Nut 1/4 AN960 10” Beadlock 10 1/4-20 x .750”L HHCS 1/4-20 PEM Nut 1/4 AN960 10” Direct Mount Hub 3 5/16-18 x 1.000” BHCS 5/16-18 Flange Nut NONE 13”/15” DM Front Wheel 10 5/16-18 x .625”L HHCS 5/16-18 Plug Nut 5/16 AN960 13”/15” Spline Rear Wheel 15 5/16-18 x .875”L HHCS 5/16-18 Plug Nut 5/16 AN960 13” Beadlock 14 5/16-18 x 1.000”L HHCS 5/16-18 Plug Nut 5/16 AN960 15” Beadlock 16 5/16-18 x 1.000”L HHCS 5/16-18 Plug Nut 5/16 AN960 15” Direct Mount Hub 5 3/8-16 x 1.250”L BHCS 3/8-16 Flange Nut NONE
Notes on center fasteners: Never use 1/2” impact guns to install or remove center bolts! All 1/4-20 center fasteners should be hand torqued to 12 ft-lbs. All 5/16-18 center fasteners should be hand torqued to 25 ft-lbs. Always use thread locking compound (Loctite 243-Blue or similar) on center bolts.
Notes on beadlock fasteners: Never use 1/2” impact guns to install or remove beadlock bolts! Try to set the torque adjustment on any electric or pneumatic tools to operate below the final torque value for your bolt size. All 1/4-20 beadlock fasteners should be hand torqued to 12 ft-lbs. All 5/16-18 beadlock fasteners should be hand torqued to 25 ft-lbs. Do not use any type of thread locking compound on beadlock bolts. Because beadlock bolts are abused so much, and fasteners are pretty cheap, it is recommended that beadlock bolts and washers are replaced every 20 tire change cycles.
What bearings does TJ Forged use for front hubs?
TJ Forged supplies all direct mount front hubs with tapered roller bearings (Timken style bearings) with a press-in oil seal on the back and a threaded dust cap with O-ring on the front. Why tapered roller bearings instead of sealed ball or angular contact bearings? Simple, sealed ball bearings are terrible for lateral (side) loads and fail quickly. Angular contact bearings are simply too much money and don’t offer all the benefits they claim to. We feel that a properly adjusted tapered roller bearing set with the proper high pressure lubricant (either grease, gear lube or oil) will allow for low drag, very long service life, and a much higher safety margin than other bearing types. For optimum setting of bearings to spin freely, use an adjustable preload spacer offered like ones offered by MPD or DRP.
(area to be designed better)
Hub Type Bearing (cone) Race (cup) Oil Seal 10” Direct Mount Hub L44643 L44610 Inner bearing w/ seal 15” Direct Mount Hub 15120 15250 or 15250X TJ Forged slip-fit
Dealer Section (not yet applicable, do not share) How do I calculate dealer pricing?
TJ Forged’s dealer pricing program is structured to ensure a level playing field for qualified dealers to resell our products to end users at a profit that makes sense. TJ Forged has a Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) policy that is enforced among all resellers of TJ Forged product to maintain our price equality and brand equity. We strongly feel that when dealers try to “lowball” the price of our products, it hurts not only profit margin for other dealers but more importantly the brand equity that TJ Forged is trying to build. We don’t believe in having an overly complicated discount structure so our discounted pricing to qualified dealers is calculated by taking the Racer price less 20% (or racer price x .80). The spread between the racer selling price and dealers buying price allows for a straight 20% GP for the dealer before shipping costs. TJ Forged has very competitive rates for shipping and offers flat rate shipping on a per-box basis to different regions of the country (east coast, Midwest, and west coast).
Are there any additional earned discounts available?
Because TJ Forged has simplified the pricing program to eliminate “hidden discounts” we don’t have any additional earned discounts that can be applied to the cost of the product.
What does it cost to ship a wheel?
All wheel prices do not include shipping. We negotiate the best rates available with our package carriers (UPS, FedEx and USPS) and whatever discounts we get, we charge the actual cost. TJ Forged is not in the shipping business so we don’t try to gouge you with high shipping prices. Additionally we try to consolidate all shipping into the most compact packaging to save in overall cost. You will regularly receive 2-4 wheels banded together. While this may seem odd, it actually saves you 25-50% of the shipping cost vs. tagging each box individually.
Where does TJ Forged ship product from?
TJ Forged currently has one distribution center in Fresno CA (ZIP 93722).
How will TJ Forged enforce their MAP pricing policy?
Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) pricing policies are necessary to ensure a level playing field for all qualified dealers for TJ Forged products. It also ensures that we as a company maintain our brand value in the marketplace. It’s our contention that if you have a high-quality, safe product that is backed up with excellent customer service, you shouldn’t have to give it away. Additionally, we have put considerable research and thought into TJ Forged’s price points for each product group. While we aren’t the cheapest available in the market, we offer a reasonable price for the product and provide the best value for the money of any wheel brand.
Because of this, our MAP policy must be enforced to help ensure that all dealers are playing by the same rules and don’t resort to cut-throat discount tactics. TJ Forged will actively search all dealers’ websites and make random “cold-calls” or e-mail inquiries to determine if they are adhering to the MAP policies and pricing. If there is written confirmation (screen shot of a website, e-mail price quote, invoice with product price listed) that the MAP policy has been violated, we will contact the dealer in question and discuss the issue. First documented instance will be a warning of violation of the policy. Second documented instance will be suspension of all dealer discounts for a period of 60 days. Third documented instance will require a complete removal of the company from any purchases for a period of 1 year or more. These policies are put in place to help dealers, not hurt them and we feel strongly that it is necessary to enforce these policies. Policies are enforced at the sole discretion of TJ Forged and we will discuss exceptional circumstances with dealers if the case arises.
Does TJ Forged offer open account status to qualified dealers?
Because TJ Forged is a new company, we currently don’t have the ability to offer open account status. All invoices must be paid for shippable product before it leaves our warehouses. In the future, we may look at offering restricted open account status to well-qualified dealers who demonstrate a high level of order volume. For now, it will be a “pay as you go” system.
What forms of payment are accepted by TJ Forged?
TJ Forged accepts all normal forms of payment - cash, bank wire transfer, bank cashier’s check, company check, personal check, credit cards (Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express), and PayPal. We do not accept money orders or international checks of any kind because of the high rate of credit fraud and time to clear international payments. Any company or personal check issued to TJ Forged must clear our bank before we release any product. It is highly recommended that for the fastest shipment of product, payment with credit card or PayPal is used. TJ Forged uses QuickBooks Merchant Services and PayPal Merchant Services for our credit card processing to ensure the highest level of security and fraud protection for both TJ Forged’s and our customers’ data integrity.
Does TJ Forged have any type of product warranty?
Racing is an inherently dangerous sport. Because of the many unpredictable applications and racing surfaces that TJ Forged products are subjected to, we do not offer any type of product warranty, either expressed or implied to the suitability, durability or usefulness of our product for your particular application. TJ Forged Wheels will, at its sole discretion, review any product that appears to have a defect in materials, workmanship or manufacturing not caused by use and/or abuse. Only after TJ Forged has reviewed the product at their facility can any determination of remedy be established. Any product that is to be returned by a customer for inspection must be sent via common carrier (UPS, FedEx, etc.) and FREIGHT PRE-PAID. TJ Forged will not accept any packages that require payment for shipping!!!
How do I return product?
Sometimes mistakes happen, and we try to work with our customers to resolve this. There are two types of returns that are accepted by TJ Forged – 1) customer-requested returns and 2) TJ Forged-requested returns.
If a customer simply ordered the wrong product and wants to send it back in exchange for the correct product, please call or e-mail your TJ Forged sales rep and get a return authorization (RA) number. No returns will be accepted without the RA number clearly written in marker on the outside of the box in a min of 2 places. The customer is responsible for all return shipping costs. TJ Forged will not accept any packages that require payment for shipping. Exchanges will not be charged a restocking fee. If you have a product that you ordered and do not want to exchange but just want to return for a refund, there will be a 10% restocking fee that will be deducted from your original purchase cost.
If a customer receives product from TJ Forged that is mis-boxed or in some way not what was ordered, please call or e-mail your TJ Forged sales rep and get a return authorization (RA) number. No returns will be accepted without the RA number clearly written in marker on the outside of the box in a min of 2 places. TJ Forged will e-mail you a return shipping “call tag” that you will need to affix to the original packaging after you have securely repacked the product in the packaging provided. If TJ Forged makes a mistake, we pay the freight back to our warehouse on TJ Forged-requested returns. Upon receipt and inspection, we will either send out the correct replacement product or credit you for the full amount of the affected product (no restocking fee for TJ Forged-requested returns).
How does TJ Forged handle credit for returned product?
TJ Forged will process any applicable credits on product that has been determine by TJ Forged to be eligible for credit as soon as the determination is made. TJ Forged can handle credits in two ways, choice is the customer’s 1) we can issue credit back via same payment method made by customer (credit card, check, wire transfer, etc.) or 2) we can apply outstanding credits to current or future invoices. If a customer plans to purchase product in the future we can hold credits on our system up to 12 months from date of credit issue. Any credits issued or applied will still have any stock adjustment fees deducted as described in the customer returns section of this document.
Wheel Tech Section
What do I need to assemble a wheel?
If you are assembling a multi-piece wheel for the first time, there are a few tools and supplies that will make the job much easier.
Here’s a list of tools and supplies:
Clean workbench or table
Safety glasses
Box cutter type razor blades
3/8”chuck electric drill
1/4” drill bit for 10” wheels
5/16” drill bit for 15” wheels
Small step drill bit (Uni-bit) to drill valve stem hole (.453” - 29/64”)
De-burring tool
Thread locking compound (Loctite 243-Medium or Loctite “blue”)
3/8” ratchet
Extra-long 3/8” ratchet extension (12” or use (2) 6” extensions for longer outer halves)
3/8” ft-lb torque wrench
7/16” 6-point socket for 10” wheels
1/2” 6-point socket for 15” wheels
Clear 100% silicone caulk and caulk gun
Acetone, rubbing alcohol or other solvent (not mineral spirits)
Non-scratching shop rags (terrycloth or micro-fiber)
Wheel polish (Zephyr Pro40 or similar)
Paper towels (for cleanup)
Detailed steps to assembling a wheel:
1. Put on safety glasses – I know I sound like your mother but we are using drills, solvents, and other things that can get in your eye so be careful.
2. Make sure you are starting with a clean table or workbench to put your parts and tools on.
3. Lay out all tools and put a non-scratching shop rag, piece of carpet, or towel on the bench. This will prevent scratching on the polished surfaces during assembly. Lay out all wheel parts (rim halves, centers, beadlock rings, fasteners, etc.) and inspect all parts to make sure they are the right size, finish, etc.
4. Take the inner and outer halves and do a quick hand polish with Zephyr Pro40 and a microfiber cloth. Apply the paste polish with your finger and use it to rub the polished rim area till it begins to turn black. Once you have rubbed all the areas, use the microfiber to wipe away the blackened compound. Continue to turn the cloth over to a clean spot. It’s much easier to do the polishing of rim halves individually than after they are assembled.
5. Take the inner and outer rim halves and place them face-down so the bolt flange is facing up. Use the drill with the appropriate drill bit (1/4” for 10” rim halves, 5/16” for 13” and 15” rim halves) and chase all the center bolt holes. Reason to do this is sometimes there is polishing compound left in the holes and ends up on the threads of the bolts during assembly.
Note: If either of the rim halves have been used, they probably have silicone from previous use. Best way to remove silicone is to use the trapezoid shaped box-cutter razor blades to cut away the bulk of the silicone and then “scrape” the remaining residue off until you have clean, bright, raw aluminum. If this doesn’t work, use a wire wheel with ¼” shank in an electric drill to clean off the silicone. Don’t use sandpaper or a grinder/flapwheel or anything that will remove metal.
1. Take the de-burring tool and de-bur any sharp edges on all bolt holes (both sides) and the ID bore. This usually isn’t necessary but sometimes there is a sharp edge that can either hang up during assembly or possibly cut you.
2. If you have a wheel with a center, it is usually easier to place the center on some type of pedestal to raise the center high enough you can sit the inner half on the center flange without it touching the table. Gallon paint cans are usually tall enough for most wheels. Place the center on the paint can.
3. Take the inner half and clean the bolt flange surface with a microfiber rag and some acetone. Put the inner half on the center bolt flange. The rim half should fit easily on the receiving flange, if it is tight or won’t sit flat, check both parts for nicks or burrs that may be hanging up. If the rim half still won’t go on flush, use a half-round file or similar tool to remove a very small amount from the ID bore of the rim half. Be sure to remove this equally around the ID bore. This could be as little as .002-.004” interference but usually isn’t necessary at all.
4. Do the same process with the outer half.
5. Line up the bolt holes for all 3 pieces (center, inner, outer).
6. Hex head center bolts should have an AN style washer under the head for each bolt. Always put the “sharp” side of the washer down (against the rim half) and the rounded edge up. When AN washers are stamped, they have a slight arc caused by the stamping process and this allows for the maximum surface area to contact under the bolt head. It’s a small issue but every bit helps. I put all the washers on the bolts first before assembling the wheel.
Note: Most modern wheel centers have threaded “plug nuts” that are pressed into the backside of the center flange, greatly simplifying the assembly process. This eliminates the need to “two hand tighten” wheels by having to use tools from both the back and front of the wheel.
1. After the washers are installed on the bolts, put a small dot of thread locking compound (Loctite 243 or similar) on the last 2-3 threads of the bolt. This will allow the Loctite to distribute itself during assembly.
2. Hand-thread the bolts into each hole. Do not do this step with any type of air or electric tool (impact, nut runner, etc.) as there is a possibility of cross-threading the bolt and possibly ruining the bolt and center insert.
3. Once the bolts are installed, use the 3/8” torque wrench with the shortest possible extension (longer extensions reduce torque wrench accuracy) and tighten bolts in a star pattern always alternating to bolts on the opposite side. Torque all bolts to the specified values listed in this document
4. If your outer half does not have a valve stem hole, use the drill with a step bit (uni-bit or similar) to drill either a 7/16” or 9/16” valve stem hole depending on your application. Hole should be located in between any two center bolt holes, usually on the barrel section of the outer half (don’t drill the inner half, had to be said). Do not drill too close to the outer edge to prevent damage from racing contact or drill too far in the barrel as to make the valve stem difficult to access. Deburr both sides of the valve stem hole. Clean any metal chips from the assembled wheel. Install valve stem (if bolt-in stem, always remove both rubber grommets and install only the single correct size (1) in hole first, then insert bolt-in stem and tighten till grommet bulges but doesn’t deform)
Note: Always drill valve stem hole before applying silicone or you will end up with metal shavings in your silicone!
Note: Almost all automotive valve stem holes are now 7/16” dia. And use a .453” dia valve hole. The only reason we still use 5/8” (actually 9/16”) on race wheel is because that is what inner-tube’s valve stems required. TJ Forged highly suggests using 7/16” valve stems, either bolt-in metal or pull-through rubber, for all racing applications. 7/16” are easier to drill and less likely to leak.
1. At this point, I usually do any final cleaning of the wheel as it is much easier to do before silicone. Use any type of automotive detailing spray meant for painted surfaces (we use Meguiar’s Quick Detailer – maroon bottle). I try to not use glass cleaner (Windex, etc.) because some types have ammonia or other chemicals that don’t react well with polished aluminum.
2. Use a paper towel and moisten with acetone or denatured alcohol and wipe down the rim seam where the inner and outer halves meet. Acetone (active ingredient in nail polish remover) will evaporate immediately and doesn’t need extra time to dry. Be very careful around Acetone, NO SMOKING. Stuff is very flammable.
Note: If you are in a rush and need to use the wheel immediately, there are two “poor boy” ways to seal a wheel temporarily so you can use it that race night. I wouldn’t suggest this as a long-term solution but will work in a pinch. Use either rubber mastic tape (3M #2228 1” wide or similar), self-fusing silicone repair tape or as a last resort, electrical tape. No silicone should be applied but should still clean with acetone before to ensure good adhesion. Simply wrap around the rim half seam 1 ½-2 times to seal. Both products are easy to remove at a later date so you can properly silicone seal the wheel.
1. Use a caulk gun to apply a small, consistent bead (about the diameter of a pencil) of 100% silicone sealant to the seam (don’t use latex). Immediately use a business card or similar to smooth the silicone bead so there is an easy transition from each rim to the center. More is not always better on silicone. Consistent and smooth is most important to ensure a good seal. It’s easiest to continuously smooth down the silicone seam while rolling the wheel along the floor. Do not attempt to work with the silicon too much as it will start to clump or smear. Be sure to remove any air bubbles that form. Overall silicone smoothed bead should be no more than approx. 1” wide. Some people use masking tape to make clean parting lines on each side of the rim mating seam and remove the tape after smoothing the silicone seam. With a little practice this is usually not necessary.
2. At this point, you must wait approx. 12-24 hours depending on weather conditions for the silicone to cure fully before mounting. Failure to allow the silicone to fully cure can lead to leaks and damage to the silicone which will require removal and re-silicone of the wheel.
3. Install bolt on-beadlock ring using the correct length bolts and washers. Snug down bolts to prevent from loosening until you are ready to mount a tire.
4. That’s it! You should have a competed wheel. Clean up your mess, put away your tools and go racing!
What do I need to inspect on my wheels?
1. There are two primary areas that any racer should check on a regular basis on their wheels 1) the bolt-in center is the most stressed area on the wheel and 2) any welded surface on a wheel. Centers should be inspected regularly (weekly) if used during the previous race week. Areas to pay attention to include the spoke area (both front and back side of center) where most of the stresses are, splines for irregular wear, and fasteners for proper torque. Easiest way to check that no bolts have loosened is to use a paint marker or even nail polish to make a small line across the back of each bolt and insert in the center to form a line or two corresponding dots. If the lines are still in the right place, no bolts have moved. Wheels in general should be cleaned with warm soapy water regularly to inspect for anything irregular, cracks, dark spots, dents, problems with fasteners, etc.
2. Welded surfaces on wheels could be either where two rim halves are welded together (front wheel shells or wide 5 wheels) or where the “weld-on” beadlock ring is attached to the rim half. These areas have what is called a “heat affected zone” where the aluminum metal is melted to form the weld joint. This melting causes the nearby metal that is heat treated to become annealed, which softens the metal. Additionally these areas are high stress areas for the wheel and should be inspected regularly. If after cleaning, you notice any type of cracking, dark lines in the direction of the weld bead, or persistent air loss in a particular wheel, you could have a crack developing. Since racing wheels are made from lightweight materials, additional welding to fix the problem is not recommended and usually leads to prolonged failure of the repaired area.
All structural products fatigue over time and wheels are no exception. There is a usable service life to most products on a race car and wheels should be inspected regularly and parts replaced as necessary. Consider your wheels another part of your rotating assembly. You would not expect your connecting rods or ring and pinion to last forever would you? Best way to inspect any product is regular cleaning and close inspection under good lighting. Additionally wheels should be checked for straightness by using commercially available tire balancing equipment or mounting wheels with no tires onto the car and rotating. Many people try to roll wheels across their shop floor to inspect but this is marginal at best and has too many variables to be reliable test.
Special note: Any wheel that is for some reason involved in a fire should be inspected thoroughly before use. Some temperatures in fires can reach 1000’s of degrees and these temps can permanently damage the physical strength of any aluminum product, not just wheels
TJ Forged was formed by Taylor Weld after many requests by customers to get back in the racing wheel business. Taylor simply saw a need in the market for a better wheel and better wheel company to help racers. TJ Forged Racing Wheels was started to solve these problems. We want to supply quality products to the racing market, on-time and actually service the customers in a way that they deserve. TJ Forged is run by racers with racer’s needs as our primary concern.
Why should I buy a TJ Forged Wheel vs. the competition?
TJ Forged singular focus in the racing wheel market – We only build racing wheels for racing applications. We don’t do this as a division of a larger company, not as a marketing gimmick or expensive hobby. Our business is solely dependent on our ability to supply the racing market with the most competitive product at a reasonable price, on time and with the best quality. Racing wheels is all we do.
We are a company of racers building wheels for racers – Everyone involved in our company comes from a racing background. Either a current driver, car owner, or former driver, we know what it’s like to be on the other end of the phone ordering parts. Just like you, we have waited for the UPS truck to show up with a critical part needed to race the next weekend. We know that it’s our responsibility to help you get to the racetrack and we take it seriously every day.
We have literally decades of wheel design, manufacturing, and selling experience in our corner – Although TJ Forged is relatively new to the racing wheel market, one of the principals of our company is definitely not. Taylor Weld is the head of our product design and manufacturing operations. If you have bought a Weld Racing wheel in the past 15-20 years, you are looking at some of Taylor’s handiwork. Taylor was instrumental in leading Weld Racing’s motorsports division into the modern era with the introduction of 100% CNC machined, forged aluminum centers, direct mount front hubs, “ultra-cover” style mud covers, and many other manufacturing innovations too numerous to list. The Weld family sold Weld Racing in 2006 and after a brief “semi-retirement” Taylor Weld is back in the racing wheel business and leading the next wave of innovation with TJ Forged Racing Wheels. Our new product is just a sampling of what will be coming in the next few years.
We will constantly improve our product – There is no such thing as “good enough”. We have a very aggressive new product development schedule and will be relentless with product improvements going forward. We listen to our customers. We will take all feedback and use it to improve our products. Some of the best innovations have actually come from racers and mechanics who work with racing wheels every day. We know we will make mistakes sometimes but we will never stop trying to learn from those mistakes and make our products, our service, and our company the best in the industry.
Where do your parts come from?
TJ Forged sources parts from several different suppliers depending on the product but always with the ultimate goal of supplying the highest quality products, regardless of where they come from. We use both domestic and overseas suppliers for different wheel components.
We have an exclusive supply relationship with a supplier in South Korea (not North Korea lol) for our rim half components. This manufacturer has been supplying the automotive aftermarket for over 30 years and has world-class manufacturing equipment. Taylor Weld, our VP of operations has been to their facilities multiple times and knows quality manufacturing capabilities when he see it and says our supplier rivals any manufacturing capacity in the USA, or the world for that matter. Rim halves are the critical component that makes a racing wheel and this relationship is crucial to ensure TJ Forged has the best quality products.
We source all other products domestically in the USA: Aluminum center forgings from California, cnc spun aluminum mud covers from Iowa, CNC Machining in California, Fasteners from Illinois and Ohio, wheel assembly, packaging and warehousing in Fresno CA. We literally go out and find the best quality products, no matter where they are. Sometimes that’s overseas, other times is the next state over. TJ Forged will always strive to find quality suppliers for our wheel components.
Can I buy my wheels directly from TJ Forged or do I need to buy through a dealer?
At this time, TJ Forged sells directly to racers. We sell racers at the Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) which is our listed “Racer Price”. Given that we are relatively new compared to the well established wheel brands out there, we feel it’s best to deal directly with our customers and give them the information and service they deserve.
How can I become a dealer for TJ Forged?
At this time we are not opening any authorized dealers in the United States. Under special circumstances, we are looking at selecting some key distribution partners for international sales, primarily Australia and New Zealand. Unless your business is in the business of racing, have a tax ID number and an actual address, website, etc., we probably won’t set you up as a dealer. We do this so that the legitimate dealers who make their living selling and servicing the racing market have a fighting chance to compete fairly. We will strictly enforce our MAP pricing policy and will refer customers to dealers in their geographic areas whenever possible.
How can I get sponsored by TJ Forged?
TJ Forged is going to be very aggressive in 2020 to get racers to make the switch. We are looking for two types of people to sponsor: “winners” and “influencers”. Winners are exactly what it means – racers or race teams who win races, track championships, series championships. If you won a race in 2019 and/or finished in the top 5 in points at your local track or racing series in 2019, we want to talk. Influencers are drivers, mechanics, or even team owners who are respected in their area and are the “go to” guy when racers need help, advice or direction on setup advice, what brand to use, etc. We know these folks might not win all the races but they help many others get their start and help others win races. We want to work with these influencers and use them to help make TJ Forged wheels better. Good feedback from our customers is critical to making our product the best possible and we want to help those who help us.
What size and type fasteners does TJ Forged use?
TJ Forged has learned from customer feedback that fastener quality has been a big issue in the past. Every TJ Forged wheel comes with domestically manufactured (that’s USA made) grade 8 fasteners with zinc plating for corrosion resistance. We use coarse thread inserts and bolts for both beadlocks and centers. This ensures there are no mix-ups on coarse thread/fine thread inserts or bolts. Some people may argue the whole “torque values on coarse thread vs. fine thread” but I can ensure you that all our fasteners will hold torque adequately. Additionally all center fasteners have thread locking compound (Loctite 243-Blue) applied during wheel assembly.
Here are the current fastener sizes
(Chart info to be Edited Here)
TJ Forged uses Wheel Type Qty Req Bolt Nut Washer 10” DM Front Wheel 8 1/4-20 x .500”L HHCS 1/4-20 Plug Nut 1/4 AN960 10” Spline Rear Wheel 12 1/4-20 x .750”L HHCS 1/4-20 Plug Nut 1/4 AN960 10” Beadlock 10 1/4-20 x .750”L HHCS 1/4-20 PEM Nut 1/4 AN960 10” Direct Mount Hub 3 5/16-18 x 1.000” BHCS 5/16-18 Flange Nut NONE 13”/15” DM Front Wheel 10 5/16-18 x .625”L HHCS 5/16-18 Plug Nut 5/16 AN960 13”/15” Spline Rear Wheel 15 5/16-18 x .875”L HHCS 5/16-18 Plug Nut 5/16 AN960 13” Beadlock 14 5/16-18 x 1.000”L HHCS 5/16-18 Plug Nut 5/16 AN960 15” Beadlock 16 5/16-18 x 1.000”L HHCS 5/16-18 Plug Nut 5/16 AN960 15” Direct Mount Hub 5 3/8-16 x 1.250”L BHCS 3/8-16 Flange Nut NONE
Notes on center fasteners: Never use 1/2” impact guns to install or remove center bolts! All 1/4-20 center fasteners should be hand torqued to 12 ft-lbs. All 5/16-18 center fasteners should be hand torqued to 25 ft-lbs. Always use thread locking compound (Loctite 243-Blue or similar) on center bolts.
Notes on beadlock fasteners: Never use 1/2” impact guns to install or remove beadlock bolts! Try to set the torque adjustment on any electric or pneumatic tools to operate below the final torque value for your bolt size. All 1/4-20 beadlock fasteners should be hand torqued to 12 ft-lbs. All 5/16-18 beadlock fasteners should be hand torqued to 25 ft-lbs. Do not use any type of thread locking compound on beadlock bolts. Because beadlock bolts are abused so much, and fasteners are pretty cheap, it is recommended that beadlock bolts and washers are replaced every 20 tire change cycles.
What bearings does TJ Forged use for front hubs?
TJ Forged supplies all direct mount front hubs with tapered roller bearings (Timken style bearings) with a press-in oil seal on the back and a threaded dust cap with O-ring on the front. Why tapered roller bearings instead of sealed ball or angular contact bearings? Simple, sealed ball bearings are terrible for lateral (side) loads and fail quickly. Angular contact bearings are simply too much money and don’t offer all the benefits they claim to. We feel that a properly adjusted tapered roller bearing set with the proper high pressure lubricant (either grease, gear lube or oil) will allow for low drag, very long service life, and a much higher safety margin than other bearing types. For optimum setting of bearings to spin freely, use an adjustable preload spacer offered like ones offered by MPD or DRP.
(area to be designed better)
Hub Type Bearing (cone) Race (cup) Oil Seal 10” Direct Mount Hub L44643 L44610 Inner bearing w/ seal 15” Direct Mount Hub 15120 15250 or 15250X TJ Forged slip-fit
Dealer Section (not yet applicable, do not share) How do I calculate dealer pricing?
TJ Forged’s dealer pricing program is structured to ensure a level playing field for qualified dealers to resell our products to end users at a profit that makes sense. TJ Forged has a Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) policy that is enforced among all resellers of TJ Forged product to maintain our price equality and brand equity. We strongly feel that when dealers try to “lowball” the price of our products, it hurts not only profit margin for other dealers but more importantly the brand equity that TJ Forged is trying to build. We don’t believe in having an overly complicated discount structure so our discounted pricing to qualified dealers is calculated by taking the Racer price less 20% (or racer price x .80). The spread between the racer selling price and dealers buying price allows for a straight 20% GP for the dealer before shipping costs. TJ Forged has very competitive rates for shipping and offers flat rate shipping on a per-box basis to different regions of the country (east coast, Midwest, and west coast).
Are there any additional earned discounts available?
Because TJ Forged has simplified the pricing program to eliminate “hidden discounts” we don’t have any additional earned discounts that can be applied to the cost of the product.
What does it cost to ship a wheel?
All wheel prices do not include shipping. We negotiate the best rates available with our package carriers (UPS, FedEx and USPS) and whatever discounts we get, we charge the actual cost. TJ Forged is not in the shipping business so we don’t try to gouge you with high shipping prices. Additionally we try to consolidate all shipping into the most compact packaging to save in overall cost. You will regularly receive 2-4 wheels banded together. While this may seem odd, it actually saves you 25-50% of the shipping cost vs. tagging each box individually.
Where does TJ Forged ship product from?
TJ Forged currently has one distribution center in Fresno CA (ZIP 93722).
How will TJ Forged enforce their MAP pricing policy?
Minimum Advertised Price (MAP) pricing policies are necessary to ensure a level playing field for all qualified dealers for TJ Forged products. It also ensures that we as a company maintain our brand value in the marketplace. It’s our contention that if you have a high-quality, safe product that is backed up with excellent customer service, you shouldn’t have to give it away. Additionally, we have put considerable research and thought into TJ Forged’s price points for each product group. While we aren’t the cheapest available in the market, we offer a reasonable price for the product and provide the best value for the money of any wheel brand.
Because of this, our MAP policy must be enforced to help ensure that all dealers are playing by the same rules and don’t resort to cut-throat discount tactics. TJ Forged will actively search all dealers’ websites and make random “cold-calls” or e-mail inquiries to determine if they are adhering to the MAP policies and pricing. If there is written confirmation (screen shot of a website, e-mail price quote, invoice with product price listed) that the MAP policy has been violated, we will contact the dealer in question and discuss the issue. First documented instance will be a warning of violation of the policy. Second documented instance will be suspension of all dealer discounts for a period of 60 days. Third documented instance will require a complete removal of the company from any purchases for a period of 1 year or more. These policies are put in place to help dealers, not hurt them and we feel strongly that it is necessary to enforce these policies. Policies are enforced at the sole discretion of TJ Forged and we will discuss exceptional circumstances with dealers if the case arises.
Does TJ Forged offer open account status to qualified dealers?
Because TJ Forged is a new company, we currently don’t have the ability to offer open account status. All invoices must be paid for shippable product before it leaves our warehouses. In the future, we may look at offering restricted open account status to well-qualified dealers who demonstrate a high level of order volume. For now, it will be a “pay as you go” system.
What forms of payment are accepted by TJ Forged?
TJ Forged accepts all normal forms of payment - cash, bank wire transfer, bank cashier’s check, company check, personal check, credit cards (Visa, MasterCard, Discover, American Express), and PayPal. We do not accept money orders or international checks of any kind because of the high rate of credit fraud and time to clear international payments. Any company or personal check issued to TJ Forged must clear our bank before we release any product. It is highly recommended that for the fastest shipment of product, payment with credit card or PayPal is used. TJ Forged uses QuickBooks Merchant Services and PayPal Merchant Services for our credit card processing to ensure the highest level of security and fraud protection for both TJ Forged’s and our customers’ data integrity.
Does TJ Forged have any type of product warranty?
Racing is an inherently dangerous sport. Because of the many unpredictable applications and racing surfaces that TJ Forged products are subjected to, we do not offer any type of product warranty, either expressed or implied to the suitability, durability or usefulness of our product for your particular application. TJ Forged Wheels will, at its sole discretion, review any product that appears to have a defect in materials, workmanship or manufacturing not caused by use and/or abuse. Only after TJ Forged has reviewed the product at their facility can any determination of remedy be established. Any product that is to be returned by a customer for inspection must be sent via common carrier (UPS, FedEx, etc.) and FREIGHT PRE-PAID. TJ Forged will not accept any packages that require payment for shipping!!!
How do I return product?
Sometimes mistakes happen, and we try to work with our customers to resolve this. There are two types of returns that are accepted by TJ Forged – 1) customer-requested returns and 2) TJ Forged-requested returns.
If a customer simply ordered the wrong product and wants to send it back in exchange for the correct product, please call or e-mail your TJ Forged sales rep and get a return authorization (RA) number. No returns will be accepted without the RA number clearly written in marker on the outside of the box in a min of 2 places. The customer is responsible for all return shipping costs. TJ Forged will not accept any packages that require payment for shipping. Exchanges will not be charged a restocking fee. If you have a product that you ordered and do not want to exchange but just want to return for a refund, there will be a 10% restocking fee that will be deducted from your original purchase cost.
If a customer receives product from TJ Forged that is mis-boxed or in some way not what was ordered, please call or e-mail your TJ Forged sales rep and get a return authorization (RA) number. No returns will be accepted without the RA number clearly written in marker on the outside of the box in a min of 2 places. TJ Forged will e-mail you a return shipping “call tag” that you will need to affix to the original packaging after you have securely repacked the product in the packaging provided. If TJ Forged makes a mistake, we pay the freight back to our warehouse on TJ Forged-requested returns. Upon receipt and inspection, we will either send out the correct replacement product or credit you for the full amount of the affected product (no restocking fee for TJ Forged-requested returns).
How does TJ Forged handle credit for returned product?
TJ Forged will process any applicable credits on product that has been determine by TJ Forged to be eligible for credit as soon as the determination is made. TJ Forged can handle credits in two ways, choice is the customer’s 1) we can issue credit back via same payment method made by customer (credit card, check, wire transfer, etc.) or 2) we can apply outstanding credits to current or future invoices. If a customer plans to purchase product in the future we can hold credits on our system up to 12 months from date of credit issue. Any credits issued or applied will still have any stock adjustment fees deducted as described in the customer returns section of this document.
Wheel Tech Section
What do I need to assemble a wheel?
If you are assembling a multi-piece wheel for the first time, there are a few tools and supplies that will make the job much easier.
Here’s a list of tools and supplies:
Clean workbench or table
Safety glasses
Box cutter type razor blades
3/8”chuck electric drill
1/4” drill bit for 10” wheels
5/16” drill bit for 15” wheels
Small step drill bit (Uni-bit) to drill valve stem hole (.453” - 29/64”)
De-burring tool
Thread locking compound (Loctite 243-Medium or Loctite “blue”)
3/8” ratchet
Extra-long 3/8” ratchet extension (12” or use (2) 6” extensions for longer outer halves)
3/8” ft-lb torque wrench
7/16” 6-point socket for 10” wheels
1/2” 6-point socket for 15” wheels
Clear 100% silicone caulk and caulk gun
Acetone, rubbing alcohol or other solvent (not mineral spirits)
Non-scratching shop rags (terrycloth or micro-fiber)
Wheel polish (Zephyr Pro40 or similar)
Paper towels (for cleanup)
Detailed steps to assembling a wheel:
1. Put on safety glasses – I know I sound like your mother but we are using drills, solvents, and other things that can get in your eye so be careful.
2. Make sure you are starting with a clean table or workbench to put your parts and tools on.
3. Lay out all tools and put a non-scratching shop rag, piece of carpet, or towel on the bench. This will prevent scratching on the polished surfaces during assembly. Lay out all wheel parts (rim halves, centers, beadlock rings, fasteners, etc.) and inspect all parts to make sure they are the right size, finish, etc.
4. Take the inner and outer halves and do a quick hand polish with Zephyr Pro40 and a microfiber cloth. Apply the paste polish with your finger and use it to rub the polished rim area till it begins to turn black. Once you have rubbed all the areas, use the microfiber to wipe away the blackened compound. Continue to turn the cloth over to a clean spot. It’s much easier to do the polishing of rim halves individually than after they are assembled.
5. Take the inner and outer rim halves and place them face-down so the bolt flange is facing up. Use the drill with the appropriate drill bit (1/4” for 10” rim halves, 5/16” for 13” and 15” rim halves) and chase all the center bolt holes. Reason to do this is sometimes there is polishing compound left in the holes and ends up on the threads of the bolts during assembly.
Note: If either of the rim halves have been used, they probably have silicone from previous use. Best way to remove silicone is to use the trapezoid shaped box-cutter razor blades to cut away the bulk of the silicone and then “scrape” the remaining residue off until you have clean, bright, raw aluminum. If this doesn’t work, use a wire wheel with ¼” shank in an electric drill to clean off the silicone. Don’t use sandpaper or a grinder/flapwheel or anything that will remove metal.
1. Take the de-burring tool and de-bur any sharp edges on all bolt holes (both sides) and the ID bore. This usually isn’t necessary but sometimes there is a sharp edge that can either hang up during assembly or possibly cut you.
2. If you have a wheel with a center, it is usually easier to place the center on some type of pedestal to raise the center high enough you can sit the inner half on the center flange without it touching the table. Gallon paint cans are usually tall enough for most wheels. Place the center on the paint can.
3. Take the inner half and clean the bolt flange surface with a microfiber rag and some acetone. Put the inner half on the center bolt flange. The rim half should fit easily on the receiving flange, if it is tight or won’t sit flat, check both parts for nicks or burrs that may be hanging up. If the rim half still won’t go on flush, use a half-round file or similar tool to remove a very small amount from the ID bore of the rim half. Be sure to remove this equally around the ID bore. This could be as little as .002-.004” interference but usually isn’t necessary at all.
4. Do the same process with the outer half.
5. Line up the bolt holes for all 3 pieces (center, inner, outer).
6. Hex head center bolts should have an AN style washer under the head for each bolt. Always put the “sharp” side of the washer down (against the rim half) and the rounded edge up. When AN washers are stamped, they have a slight arc caused by the stamping process and this allows for the maximum surface area to contact under the bolt head. It’s a small issue but every bit helps. I put all the washers on the bolts first before assembling the wheel.
Note: Most modern wheel centers have threaded “plug nuts” that are pressed into the backside of the center flange, greatly simplifying the assembly process. This eliminates the need to “two hand tighten” wheels by having to use tools from both the back and front of the wheel.
1. After the washers are installed on the bolts, put a small dot of thread locking compound (Loctite 243 or similar) on the last 2-3 threads of the bolt. This will allow the Loctite to distribute itself during assembly.
2. Hand-thread the bolts into each hole. Do not do this step with any type of air or electric tool (impact, nut runner, etc.) as there is a possibility of cross-threading the bolt and possibly ruining the bolt and center insert.
3. Once the bolts are installed, use the 3/8” torque wrench with the shortest possible extension (longer extensions reduce torque wrench accuracy) and tighten bolts in a star pattern always alternating to bolts on the opposite side. Torque all bolts to the specified values listed in this document
4. If your outer half does not have a valve stem hole, use the drill with a step bit (uni-bit or similar) to drill either a 7/16” or 9/16” valve stem hole depending on your application. Hole should be located in between any two center bolt holes, usually on the barrel section of the outer half (don’t drill the inner half, had to be said). Do not drill too close to the outer edge to prevent damage from racing contact or drill too far in the barrel as to make the valve stem difficult to access. Deburr both sides of the valve stem hole. Clean any metal chips from the assembled wheel. Install valve stem (if bolt-in stem, always remove both rubber grommets and install only the single correct size (1) in hole first, then insert bolt-in stem and tighten till grommet bulges but doesn’t deform)
Note: Always drill valve stem hole before applying silicone or you will end up with metal shavings in your silicone!
Note: Almost all automotive valve stem holes are now 7/16” dia. And use a .453” dia valve hole. The only reason we still use 5/8” (actually 9/16”) on race wheel is because that is what inner-tube’s valve stems required. TJ Forged highly suggests using 7/16” valve stems, either bolt-in metal or pull-through rubber, for all racing applications. 7/16” are easier to drill and less likely to leak.
1. At this point, I usually do any final cleaning of the wheel as it is much easier to do before silicone. Use any type of automotive detailing spray meant for painted surfaces (we use Meguiar’s Quick Detailer – maroon bottle). I try to not use glass cleaner (Windex, etc.) because some types have ammonia or other chemicals that don’t react well with polished aluminum.
2. Use a paper towel and moisten with acetone or denatured alcohol and wipe down the rim seam where the inner and outer halves meet. Acetone (active ingredient in nail polish remover) will evaporate immediately and doesn’t need extra time to dry. Be very careful around Acetone, NO SMOKING. Stuff is very flammable.
Note: If you are in a rush and need to use the wheel immediately, there are two “poor boy” ways to seal a wheel temporarily so you can use it that race night. I wouldn’t suggest this as a long-term solution but will work in a pinch. Use either rubber mastic tape (3M #2228 1” wide or similar), self-fusing silicone repair tape or as a last resort, electrical tape. No silicone should be applied but should still clean with acetone before to ensure good adhesion. Simply wrap around the rim half seam 1 ½-2 times to seal. Both products are easy to remove at a later date so you can properly silicone seal the wheel.
1. Use a caulk gun to apply a small, consistent bead (about the diameter of a pencil) of 100% silicone sealant to the seam (don’t use latex). Immediately use a business card or similar to smooth the silicone bead so there is an easy transition from each rim to the center. More is not always better on silicone. Consistent and smooth is most important to ensure a good seal. It’s easiest to continuously smooth down the silicone seam while rolling the wheel along the floor. Do not attempt to work with the silicon too much as it will start to clump or smear. Be sure to remove any air bubbles that form. Overall silicone smoothed bead should be no more than approx. 1” wide. Some people use masking tape to make clean parting lines on each side of the rim mating seam and remove the tape after smoothing the silicone seam. With a little practice this is usually not necessary.
2. At this point, you must wait approx. 12-24 hours depending on weather conditions for the silicone to cure fully before mounting. Failure to allow the silicone to fully cure can lead to leaks and damage to the silicone which will require removal and re-silicone of the wheel.
3. Install bolt on-beadlock ring using the correct length bolts and washers. Snug down bolts to prevent from loosening until you are ready to mount a tire.
4. That’s it! You should have a competed wheel. Clean up your mess, put away your tools and go racing!
What do I need to inspect on my wheels?
1. There are two primary areas that any racer should check on a regular basis on their wheels 1) the bolt-in center is the most stressed area on the wheel and 2) any welded surface on a wheel. Centers should be inspected regularly (weekly) if used during the previous race week. Areas to pay attention to include the spoke area (both front and back side of center) where most of the stresses are, splines for irregular wear, and fasteners for proper torque. Easiest way to check that no bolts have loosened is to use a paint marker or even nail polish to make a small line across the back of each bolt and insert in the center to form a line or two corresponding dots. If the lines are still in the right place, no bolts have moved. Wheels in general should be cleaned with warm soapy water regularly to inspect for anything irregular, cracks, dark spots, dents, problems with fasteners, etc.
2. Welded surfaces on wheels could be either where two rim halves are welded together (front wheel shells or wide 5 wheels) or where the “weld-on” beadlock ring is attached to the rim half. These areas have what is called a “heat affected zone” where the aluminum metal is melted to form the weld joint. This melting causes the nearby metal that is heat treated to become annealed, which softens the metal. Additionally these areas are high stress areas for the wheel and should be inspected regularly. If after cleaning, you notice any type of cracking, dark lines in the direction of the weld bead, or persistent air loss in a particular wheel, you could have a crack developing. Since racing wheels are made from lightweight materials, additional welding to fix the problem is not recommended and usually leads to prolonged failure of the repaired area.
All structural products fatigue over time and wheels are no exception. There is a usable service life to most products on a race car and wheels should be inspected regularly and parts replaced as necessary. Consider your wheels another part of your rotating assembly. You would not expect your connecting rods or ring and pinion to last forever would you? Best way to inspect any product is regular cleaning and close inspection under good lighting. Additionally wheels should be checked for straightness by using commercially available tire balancing equipment or mounting wheels with no tires onto the car and rotating. Many people try to roll wheels across their shop floor to inspect but this is marginal at best and has too many variables to be reliable test.
Special note: Any wheel that is for some reason involved in a fire should be inspected thoroughly before use. Some temperatures in fires can reach 1000’s of degrees and these temps can permanently damage the physical strength of any aluminum product, not just wheels